Sew Along #4 – Toile Continued

24 Nov

Your toile will start to resemble the real deal now so it only gets better from here on in!

If you are following the book instructions too then we are on number 6. The next step is to construct the facing. Take the back facing and the two front facings and sew together at shoulder seams as shown below.

The book talks about stay stitching. This is a technique used to prevent pattern pieces skewing out of shape. Any curved edge or edges cut on the bias can stretch right out of shape really easily so putting a nice line of stitching within the seam allowance will help the pieces stay in shape and be easier to work with. You don’t have to stay stitch though – I only ever do it if I am working with a difficult fabric.

Press shoulder seams open. You can also press the bottom edge of the back facing under to the wrong side by 1cm and the non lapel side of the front facing inder by 1cm also. See photo below if you have no idea what I mean! You can stitch this in place if you like but it is probably not necessary at the toile stage.

Find your upper collar piece. With right sides together pin this to the neck edge of the facing. Now here is where it gets complicated because it starts talking about big dots and wee dots and surprise surprise all the dots are the same size! Thankfully I have sat for 10 minutes working out what way the collar goes on so listen up. Your upper collar has a long edge with two double notches. This is not the edge you are sewing to the neck of the facing. You will also see that this upper collar is going to have to be stitched round a corner. If you snip the facing at the corner it will make life a lot easier. You should also have about 5cm of the lapel facing that has nothing sewn to it at all. This is correct!


So how is everyone getting on? let me know on here on on the facebook


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