Sew Along #7 – Fitting your Toile

6 Jan

So we are now at a point where our toile actually looks like a jacket and you will have tried it on already. As soon as anything starts to become remotely wearable I will be trying it on. So that is pretty much after the shoulder seams have been sewn together! At that point it looked like an old Rainbows tabard that I hated with a passion. I hated Rainbows, I cried every time I went(all of twice). I wasn’t a brat I just knew what a liked and even then I knew that lemon yellow tabard was a huge no no.

Anyway you have tried it on what do you think? Does it need taken in at the sides? Maybe a little adjustment to the darts? It’s not very easy to put this in words and pictures but here goes nothing.

Lets say you need to nip in the waist slightly. This is an adjustment I make quite often. Turn the jacket inside out so you have access to the seam allowances inside. Put the jacket on in front of the mirror. Remember this will be going over a tee shirt or a jumper so wear what you might be likely to wear this with. Pull it in at the side until it fits better and pin in place.


No we have to transfer this exact adjustment over to the other side seam. Easiest way to do this is to line the side seams up and put some pins in the other side seam. Try to make them as equal as possible.


the rule is whatever you do to one side you do to the other. Now that the pins are in place on both side seams try it on again. Is it looking better? If so you have to sew up one of the seams and trim the side seam so that the seam allowance is 1.5 away from the new line of stitching. Now you need to change your paper pattern accordingly. The two pieces that will have to be changed here are the side front and  the side back. You may have to unpick these pieces in order to lay them on top of the paper pattern. Now cut the paper pattern until it is the same shape as the side back and side front that you have just altered. The piece of fabric that you cut off the toile should be the same shape as the piece of paper you cut off the pattern. Consider your pattern ready to go.

So that’s that!  Now that you pattern has been adjusted and you are happy with the fit we are ready to start this all over again with the real fabric!



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